You know you’re an addicted knitter when…
…someone hands you a cute baby to hold and you just stare at the stitch pattern on her cute hand-knit hoodie.
The baby’s name is Sadie, the hoodie has now been outgrown, but the stitch pattern lives on, memorised, reconstructed, reinterpreted, and finally turned into socks.
These socks are constructed toe up, with a reversed heel-flap-and-gusset heel. A little simple calculation is required to work this heel, but it’s not scary, honest! Garter stitch inserts fill the centre of the cable twists, which are themselves framed by purl rounds. At the cuff, the cables merge smoothly into the unusual 7 stitch ribbing.
The pattern is written for 2 circular needles, but dpns or Magic Loop can easily be substituted if preferred. I have included a chart, as well as full written instructions for the stitch pattern.
Yarn: 90% fine alpaca, 10% cotton sock yarn (4 ply) from DT Craft and Design 100g (approx 350m).
(Or substitute any solid or semi-solid sock yarn of your choice, as long as gauge matches.)
This yarn is exceptionally soft, and requires some care to work with as it is quite loosely plied. But it easily repays the attention, forming a strong and supple fabric with a slight ‘halo’ and showing the stitch pattern beautifully.
Yarn dyed using Kool-Aid.
Needles: 2 x 2.5mm circular needles.
Gauge: 28 stitches x 20 rows = 10cm, over pattern using 2.5mm needles.
Finished Sizing: Fits a foot with diameter 23cm at widest part of the foot. Finished len
gth of foot is 23.5cm, length of leg is 22cm (measured in both cases from point of heel). For a wider foot or longer socks, you are likely to need a second skein of yarn.
Special Techniques: Figure of 8 cast on. Cabling without a cable needle (optional, but saves a whole lot of time) – I’ve attempted various methods, this tutorial looks like the simplest method over 2 stitches.
Abbreviations used in Pattern:
k = knit
p = purl
sl1 = slip next stitch purlwise
k1b = knit through the back of the loop
kfb = knit into front and back of the stitch
pfb = purl into front and back of the stitch
c2f = slip 1 stitch onto a cable needle held at the front of the work, knit next stitch from lef
t needle, knit stitch from the cable needle. (Or twist these 2 stitches as per the video tutorial linked above).
c2b = slip 1 stitch onto a cable needle held at the back of the work, knit next stitch from left needle, knit stitch from the cable needle. (Or twist these 2 stitches as per the video tutorial linked above).
w&t = wrap and turn. Slip next stitch purlwise, bring yarn between needles, slip stitch back so that the yarn has been wrapped around it. Turn work.
k2tog = knit next 2 stitches together
ssk = slip next 2 stitches separately knitwise, insert left needle tip into front of both stitches, and knit them together
p2tog = purl next 2 stitches together
Pattern Stitch: (over 7 stitches and 20 rows). Final 4 stitches after the pattern repeat are for the foot only.
Row 1: [k1b, k2, k1b, k3], k1b, k2, k1b
Row 2: [k1b, p2, k1b, k3], k1b, p2, k1b
Rows 3-4: As rows 1-2
Row 5: [c2f, c2b, k3], c2f, c2b
Row 6: [p1, k2, p4], p1, k2, p1
Row 7: [k1, c2b, k4], k1, c2b, k1
Row 8: As row 6
Row 9: [c2b, c2f, k3], c2b, c2f
Row 10: As row 2
Rows 11-13: As rows 1-3
Row 14: [k1b, p2, k1b, p3], k1b, p2, k1b
Rows 15-17: As rows 5-7
Row 18: k7
Rows 19-20: As rows 9-10.
Using the figure of 8 method, cast on 8 stitches onto each of 2 circular needles (16 stitches). Knit 1 round on these stitches.
Increase Round: kfb, k till 2 stitches remain on Needle 1, kfb, k. Repeat on Needle 2. (20 stitches).
Work this round 3 more times (32 stitches).
Knit next round, then work Increase Round (36 stitches).
Work these 2 rounds 6 more times (60 stitches).
K next round, then work the Increase Round omitting one kfb on Needle 2. (63 stitches). You should have 32 stitches on Needle 1 (multiple of 7 + 4) and 31 stitches on Needle 2 (multiple of 7 + 3). K 1 round.
Set up for foot pattern: Needle 1, [k1b, p2, k1b, k3] till 4 stitches remain on Needle 1, k1b, p2, k1b.
Work in stocking stitch over Needle 2 for whole of foot
Next round: start working foot pattern from chart, or follow written instructions for stitch pattern. Pattern repeats 4 times + 4 stitches over the top of the foot.
Continue as set until foot is 2 inches shorter than the desired length. (In my case, this was after 3 pattern repeats).
For the gusset, continue pattern over Needle 1, while increasing on alternate rounds on Needle 2 as follows: kfb, k until 2 stitches remain on Needle, kfb, k. Continue until there are 47 stitches on Needle 2.
These stitches will be divided up as follows: 15 side stitches (Side 1), 17 cap stitches, 15 side stitches (Side 2).
If you are working the sole over a different number of stitches, see footnote for instructions on calculating the number of heel stitches you need.
K across the 15 stitches for Side 1. Slide these stitches onto Needle 1 or a piece of waste yarn while you work the heel cap. From the other end of Needle 2, slide the 15 stitches for Side 2 onto Needle 1 or a piece of waste yarn. Work heel cap over the remaining 17 central stitches only.
Row 1: k, kfb, k until 2 stitches remain, w&t
Row 2: sl1, pfb, p until 2 stitches remain, w&t
Row 3: sl1, kfb, k until 3 stitches remain, w&t
Row 4: sl1, pfb, p until 3 stitches remain, w&t
Row5: sl1, kfb, k until 4 stitches remain, w&t
Row 6: sl1, pfb, p until 4 stitches remain, w&t
Continue as set, leaving 1 more stitch unworked at the end of the row each time, until the total number of stitches in the heel cap equals the orignal number of stitches in the sole of the foot – in this case, 31 stitches.
Next Row: sl1, k across until 1 stitch remains on left needle, picking up wraps as you go – when you reach a wrapped stitch, slip it knitwise, then pick up the wrap with the point of the left needle. Slip the wrap knitwise, then insert the left needle point into the front of both the stitch and its wrap, and knit them together. Slide the 15 stitches for Side 2 back onto Needle 2 from the other needle or waste yarn. Ssk the last heel cap stitch and first side stitch. Turn work.
Next Row: sl1, p across until 1 stitch remains on left needle, picking up remaining wraps as you go – when you reach a wrapped stitch, slip it purlwise, then pick up the wrap with the point of the left needle. Slip the wrapped stitch back to the left needle, then p2tog with the stitch and its wrap. Slide the 15 stitches for Side 1 back onto Needle 2 from the other needle or waste yarn. P2tog the last heel cap stitch and first side stitch. Turn work.
Row 1: [sl1, k1] to last heel cap stitch, ssk with next side stitch, turn.
Row 2: p to last heel cap stitch, p2tog with next side stitch, turn.
Repeat these 2 rows until all side stitches have been incorporated into the heel flap. 31 stitches remain on Needle 2. Final Row: sl1, k across all remaining stitches on Needle 2.
Work stitch pattern over all stitches on round until desired length is reached. (I did 3 pattern repeats here). If you are following the chart, take note of the highlighted stitches on rounds 6, 7, 8, 16, and 17. If you are not using the chart, you will need to do the following on these rows, at the beginning of the round only: rounds 6, 8 and 16: knit first stitch; rounds 7 and 17, purl first stitch. This will prevent a ‘jog’ at the start of the round.
Finish the leg pattern on round 3 or 13 of the pattern, to have a smooth transition to the ribbing on the cuff:
Ribbing pattern: [k1b, p2, k1b, p, k1b, p] repeat to end of round.
Work 15 rounds of ribbing, then cast off loosely in rib.
*If you work this heel over a different number of stitches, here’s how to do the maths:
Firstly, decide how many rows you will want in your heel flap – 30 is a good number, but you may know that you need more. Also, calculate how many stitches you want for the cap of the heel as follows:
Take the number of sole stitches (before increasing) on Needle 2, and halve it.
- If the total is an odd number and a half, add 1.5 to it. IE 31 sole stitches, halves to 15.5, + 1.5 = 17.
- If the total is an even number and a half, add 2.5 to it. IE 33 sole stitches, halves to 16.5, +1.5 = 19.
- If the total is an even number, add 2 to it. IE 32 sole stitches, halves to 16, + 2 = 18.
- If the total is an odd number, add 3 to it. IE 30 sole stitches, halves to 15, +3 = 18.
The resulting number is how many stitches you will need to start the heel cap.
The total number of stitches you will need on Needle 2 after completing the gusset increases will be [heelflap stitches] + [heel cap stitches].
Copyright Purplesteph 2009.
Please do: Use this pattern and tell other people about it.
Please don’t: Sell this pattern or completed items made using the pattern.